DZHUS - "Carbon" S/S 2017

The innovative design of the Ukrainian brand DZHUS never ceases to surprise and amaze me. The concept of the brand is based on the interaction and transformation, as well as functionality. Comprehending metaphysics of the form and its antipode, volumes and silhouettes, voids and surfaces, contours and textures, the designer, Irina DZHUS explores the possibilities of interaction of the surrounding space's constitutive parts, from which her experimental constructions derive.

Collection for Spring / Sumer 2017 is symbolically called "Carbon"; color black that dominates DZHUS' collections. The entire process of mining carbon, the workers' rigid routine, uniforms and stern industrial constructions have inspired the surly, utilitarian leitmotif of the designs. Straight and sharp lines, and delicate shadings, have embodied in contoured edges and sheer textures of the monochrome garments, making atypical but wearable avant-garde pieces. 

"Carbon is ashes, which will remain when we are gone, as a symbol of life’s fragility and the eternal cycle of nature."


DZHUS

OVKLAB - A/W 2017

Always musically inspired, OVKLAB returns with another striking collection. For the upcoming Autumn / Winter 2017 season, collection entitled "Such A Tragedy Does Not Repeat Itself Before You Die" combines the work of four artists that led the designer to create 90s themed collection; fine artwork by Kwei-Yen Chen, tattoo artist Mutineer Jun, underground stoner metal band Sleaze, and well known photographer Charles Peterson. When you connect all the pieces of the puzzle into a whole you get a modernized perspective of Grunge, Kurt and Nirvana.


Photographer : Huang Jun Tuan
Model : Gao Xiao Gao, Zhan, Josh Yang
Collection Designer : Chuang
Staff Crew : Ming, Jess, Hayden, Jamo, En
Make Up : Angie Huang
Hair Stylist : Kira Master




Litanies Of Skin | vegetal jewellery

Litanies Of Skin is an independent jewellery brand based in Montpellier, France. Young and talented designer, Maëlle Cadoret creates pieces of a strong character and with a great energy. Each jewel is hand-crafted, made of a stainless steel and a black resin. The macabre touch in the design is created with adding of a semi-precious stones such as black tourmaline, and a carving process that is based on designer's drawings. This technique gives each piece its unique and original style.
Maëlle's work has its own personality that possess a dark beauty, and together with its wearer creates unbreakable bond.



Retrofuturism: reshaping fashion - part II

1980’s

The 1980’s was the decade when I was born. Decade full of changes, in general. Fashion in the 80’s was heavily influenced by economics and lifestyle changes. From the immaculately polished styles presented by Ralph Lauren, Armani and Calvin Klein, to the fashion forward design houses such as Margiela and Alaïa who were reshaping clothing conventions beyond what we could ever imagine. The phrase 'less is more' did not seem to apply during the 80’s. The decade was all about vivid color, excessive volume, geometric shapes, experimentation, and self-expression.
There was an alternative side as well: fashion that was born out of the underground and performance art movements between the London, New York and Berlin club scenes; fashion where names such as Thierry Mugler and Azzedine Alaïa stands as progenitors of a new movement.


Azzedine Alaïa

The enigmatic Tunisian-born couturier and shoe designer, Azzedine Alaïa is one of the few names (in this list) who creates fashion outside of trends - literally and ideologically. Alaïa's garments appear engineered rather than simply sewn. In 1980, he presented his first ready to wear shows after working for several couture houses and opening his first intimate atelier.

Claude Montana

During the 80’s, Montana's passion for leather earned him a central position on the international fashion radar. He epitomized the power look alongside Thierry Mugler. His spectacular fashion shows were highly anticipated events and his creations were considered modern and unique of that time.

Jean Paul Gaultier

There's not much that needs to be said about the fashion world's bad boy who loved to provoke. His style was always ahead of its time. Gaultier’s designs were swinging along with his mood and inspiration; a designer with a charming smile who enjoyed combining various styles, mixing the feminine with the masculine and was the designer who created the famous cone bra that Madonna wore. What can be cooler than that?

Stephen Jones

One of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Jones worked with and for everyone. His work is known for its inventiveness and the high level of technical expertise with which he realizes his ideas.

Maison Martin Margiela

The Belgian designer known for his deconstructionism and artsy designs that subvert classic tailoring techniques with reverse seams, recycled textiles, and industrial materials. Margiela has made discretion a trademark: no public appearances, subtle tags and the employee uniform white overalls, all contribute to this modesty. 

Thierry Mugler

The French designer whose creations reshaped and sublimated women's bodies. Mugler is the top name on my list of most favorite and important creators both within the fashion industry, and outside of it. His innovative creations are ahead of anyone's time. Mugler never publicly considered his designs to be futuristic, he describes them as 'sexy and powerful'. The work he contributed in the 80’s were remembered as a application of various materials: vinyl, leather and metal together with extravagant shows from another dimension... or, as I call it: ‘a place were art meets science'.

Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto

These Japanese designers appeared on the Parisian scene in 1981. Both shared a love for voluminous, poetic and severe black garments; epitomizing the deconstructionist movement. 


Before we hit the 90’s, here are the names of some style icons that were significant in the 80’s and helped inspired those that defined the 90’s: Leigh Bowery, Klaus Nomi, Boy George, Annie Lennox, Grace Jones, and Club Kids.


1990’s

The 90’s were a decade that defined me. Clarifying the real differences between the 80’s and the 90’s can be challenging. All the synthetic materials, crazy shapes, and vivid colors that were very noticeable at the end of the 80’s, lasted somewhat until the mid 90’s. A majority of designers were still highly influenced by the previous decade. Well, how could they not to be? But, as time passed, everything got a bit looser; but we won’t hold that against them. Nothing that a spritz of CK One could not fix!


Alexander McQueen

The fashion world wouldn't be the same without him. McQueen was known for his emotional and dramatic looks, as well as powerful and edgy romanticism presented in a contemporary direction.

Ann Demeulemeester

The Belgian designer, and member of the “Antwerp Six”, Demeulemeester was a representative of the avant-garde fashion scene. In 1996 she released her eponymous label, and became known for her deconstructive and atypical designs. The main inspiration for Demeulemeester was androgynous singer Patti Smith.
A majority of the people might not agree with me that she belong here, but, in my opinion her dark and emotional aesthetic dictates the artistic side of 90’s fashion.


Philip Treacy

The Mad Hatter! All sizes and shapes in a sheer variety of styles that one could ever imagine. By wearing his hats, only one thing was guaranteed: you would be noticed.

Hussein Chalayan

Another name whose designs I love - the experimental creator who keeps pushing boundaries of wearable fashion even now today. Chalayan launched his label in 1994 and since then he keeps questioning everything around us in the fashion he creates: anthropology, environment, politics and philosophy.
A self-titled "weaver of different worlds”, Chalayan keeps reshaping the trends we know today with innovative uses of technology, leaving us speechless.



So, when you sum things up, the whole Sci-fi space-inspired fashion stayed for the most part in the 60’s and 70’s. Retrofuturism in the 80’s and 90’s was all about colors, shoulder pads, neon tints, geometry, deconstruction, underground clubs, sub-cultures, and experimentation.
Whether you remember these fashion trends from first hand experience or whether you are just interested in researching what fashion was like back then, the point is to continue being creative and enjoy the journey of self-expression through clothing.

(End of part II)


Source: Wikipedia, The Red List

Nicholas K - F/W 2017

Continuing in the retro style, newest collection by NICHOLAS K duo is highly inspired by the 90s. As they recall in their program notes, it was a time when there was “the promise of a global humanitarian community; communal diversity and unity.” 

Collection is heavy layered with strong silver and gold metallic details, spike-heeled boots and biker jackets, nose rings, hoop earrings, square sunglasses, berets, and whatnot.

“It’s kind of that glam street look—everything you loved about the ’90s but brought forward to today. Where we are now . . . we wanted to revisit the optimism, because we’ve gone back,” explained Nicholas.

This is so far one of their strongest collections.


Photo source: Vogue